A desperate search operation is underway in Pakistan after a devastating avalanche swept across Broad Peak, leaving several climbers feared dead and others missing, including internationally celebrated Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja.
The avalanche struck the 8,047-metre mountain in the Karakoram range around midday on Thursday, triggering a massive flow of snow and ice that engulfed a climbing expedition making its ascent.
Four Confirmed Dead as Rescue Efforts Continue
Emergency teams recovered four bodies on Friday, while six climbers remained unaccounted for as poor weather conditions complicated rescue operations.
Authorities said helicopter missions were repeatedly affected by difficult flying conditions, forcing rescuers to continue the search under challenging circumstances.
Among those confirmed dead were Omani climber Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy, who made history as the first woman from Oman to summit Mount Everest, and experienced Nepali climber Pur Bahadur Gurung.
Nirmal Purja Among Those Missing
Purja, 43, was leading the multinational expedition when disaster struck.
The team consisted of 10 climbers from several countries, including Nepal, Pakistan, Oman, the United States, China, and other international participants.
The former British military serviceman, widely known as “Nims,” has not been located since the avalanche, raising growing fears about his fate.
GPS Signals Offer a Glimmer of Hope
Officials from the Alpine Club of Pakistan confirmed they lost contact with the expedition shortly after the avalanche occurred.
However, GPS tracking data has provided investigators with possible locations for some of the missing climbers.
According to the club’s leadership, tracking devices from several expedition members continued transmitting coordinates after the avalanche, prompting search teams to investigate multiple locations on the mountain.
Purja’s business associate, Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, said movement detected from Purja’s tracking device after the incident has given rescuers reason to continue searching.
While the initial signal suggested he had been swept down the mountain, later data appeared to show another location, leading rescue teams to expand their search area.
American Climber Also Missing
Among those still missing is 39-year-old American climber Mallory Geis of San Antonio.
Earlier this year, Geis shared on social media that she had closed her Pilates studio to pursue full-time mountaineering adventures, describing the decision as a leap into an uncertain but exciting future.
She was part of the international expedition attempting one of the world’s most dangerous high-altitude climbs when the avalanche struck.
A Mountaineering Icon with Record-Breaking Achievements
Purja became one of the world’s most recognised climbers after completing an extraordinary challenge in 2019 by summiting all 14 mountains taller than 8,000 metres in just 189 days.
The achievement shattered the previous world record by more than seven years and became the focus of the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, introducing his remarkable story to a global audience.
His accomplishments also include becoming the first climber to summit Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within just 48 hours, cementing his reputation as one of the greatest high-altitude mountaineers of his generation.
From Gurkha Soldier to Global Mountaineering Legend
Born in rural western Nepal, Purja overcame a difficult childhood before joining the Brigade of Gurkhas as a teenager.
He later served for 16 years in the British military, including a decade with the elite Special Boat Service, where he worked as a cold-weather warfare specialist.
After leaving military service in 2018, he dedicated himself entirely to mountaineering, quickly establishing himself through a series of record-breaking expeditions and daring rescue missions in the Himalayas.
His contributions to extreme mountaineering earned him an MBE in recognition of his achievements.
Champion of Nepal’s Climbing Community
Beyond his personal records, Purja became a leading advocate for Nepal’s climbing community.
He frequently used his international profile to highlight the skills of Nepali climbers, funded educational projects through his charitable foundation, supported mountain clean-up campaigns, and built accommodation for porters working on Everest routes.
He often expressed hope that future generations of Nepali mountaineers would surpass his own achievements, believing exploration was driven by constantly pushing beyond existing limits.
Rescue Mission Faces Race Against Time
As rescue teams continue battling severe weather on Broad Peak, hopes remain that some of the missing climbers may still be found.
For the global mountaineering community, the unfolding tragedy has cast a shadow over one of the world’s most dangerous peaks, with the fate of Nirmal Purja and the remaining missing climbers still uncertain as search efforts press on.