A once-celebrated California barbecue restaurant praised by celebrity chef Guy Fieri is now at the center of a growing local dispute, as residents accuse it of pumping heavy smoke into their neighbourhood.
A&M BBQ, which opened in Sebastopol in June 2024, quickly built a strong following and gained national attention after Fieri publicly acknowledged the spot with a fist bump last year.
But less than two years after launch, the restaurant is facing mounting pressure from nearby residents who say its cooking operations have made living conditions difficult.
Residents Claim Air Quality Has Worsened Near Smokehouse
The controversy escalated during a May 5 Sebastopol City Council meeting, where several residents living within blocks of the restaurant described worsening air quality tied to its commercial smokers.
One resident, Megan Cowan, told officials the situation had become “untenable,” arguing that the problem intensified after the restaurant upgraded to larger smokers fitted with taller smokestacks designed to improve output.
Neighbours claim that what was once a small-scale operation has now grown into a persistent source of smoke drifting through surrounding homes, sparking frustration among parts of the community.
Owner Says He Was Caught Off Guard by Public Complaints
A&M BBQ owner and pitmaster Kristopher Austin said he was surprised by the intensity of the criticism aired at the council meeting, stating he had never intended for the business to cause disruption.
Speaking to SFGate, Austin said he was taken aback by the backlash and insisted the restaurant has tried to remain considerate of the surrounding community while expanding operations.
Austin also revealed that city officials had already raised concerns earlier in March, requesting that one of the restaurant’s two smokers be relocated off-site.
That unit has since been placed in storage, effectively cutting the business’s cooking capacity in half.
Zoning Rules Put Remaining Smoker at Risk
Despite that adjustment, the restaurant may still face further operational restrictions.
Sebastopol officials have confirmed that A&M BBQ’s remaining smoker could also be forced out under local zoning rules, which prohibit outdoor commercial barbecue equipment in the area where the restaurant operates.
City manager Mary Gourley said discussions with the owner are ongoing and that enforcement action would be delayed as long as progress toward compliance continues during a 10-day window.
Documents shared with SFGate indicate the restaurant was formally notified in April that its two commercial smokers were not approved for use at its current location.
City Issues Compliance Warning as Deadline Approaches
Tensions increased again on May 28 when the city issued another notice giving A&M BBQ just 10 days to cease using its outdoor smoking equipment.
Officials warned that continued operation would violate local zoning requirements, raising the possibility of enforcement action if adjustments are not made.
Gourley emphasized that while the city is continuing discussions with the business, it must also uphold planning regulations governing commercial activity in residential-adjacent areas.
Owners Seek Alternatives as Relocation Talks Stall
Facing regulatory pressure and reduced production capacity, Austin and his business partner Finn Liss have been exploring possible relocation options for their smoking equipment and operations.
One proposal to move the smoker to a former Mary’s Pizza Shack site was discussed but ultimately did not move forward. Another idea involving space near Mexican restaurant El Coronel also failed to produce a workable agreement.
Austin says finding a compliant long-term site within Sebastopol’s zoning framework has proven increasingly difficult.
Community Divided Over BBQ Business and Its Impact
The dispute has also spilled onto social media, where supporters of A&M BBQ have rallied behind the owners, praising the restaurant’s food and questioning the severity of the complaints.
Some commenters said they lived very close to complainants but had not experienced significant smoke or odor issues, while others accused city officials of being unsupportive toward small businesses.
In response, Austin and Liss posted on Instagram on May 14, stating they had been actively searching for a more suitable long-term location and were working with city officials to address concerns while adjusting operations in the meantime.
They also encouraged supporters to write to the city council and attend meetings in solidarity.
Officials Say Business Still Has Path to Compliance
Despite the conflict, city officials have stressed that A&M BBQ remains valued in the community.
Gourley said the city recognizes the restaurant’s contribution to Sebastopol’s local economy and character, adding that staff remain committed to finding workable solutions with the owners.
Possible compliance options discussed include installing filtration systems for smoke control, though such equipment could be costly for a small business and may present additional operational challenges.
For now, the future of A&M BBQ’s signature smoking setup remains uncertain as both sides continue searching for a resolution that satisfies zoning laws and neighbourhood concerns.
