Harris Reed’s London Fashion Week Opening
Harris Reed kicked off London Fashion Week with his signature dramatic show, continuing a tradition he has established over the past few seasons. However, this time, the atmosphere felt more subdued and serious compared to previous seasons, where A-listers like Florence Pugh, Sam Smith, and Adam Lambert took center stage.
Cosima as the SS24 Performer
For his SS24 show, Harris Reed chose Peckham-born singer Cosima as the performer. The front row featured notable figures like Maisie Williams, Munroe Bergdorf, and Charithra Chandran. Cosima graced the runway in a couture-inspired velvet and ivory satin strapless gown, setting the tone for a collection characterized by a limited color palette of deadstock black velvet, white satin, and gold, yet still boasting extravagant silhouettes.
Ashley Graham’s Opening Look
US model Ashley Graham opened the show wearing a charcoal velvet dress with a shimmering gold corset on top, adding to the anticipation of a week expected to be filled with supermodel appearances, particularly at Vogue magazine’s Vogue World mega-show.
Focus on Silhouettes and Details
In a departure from his previous reliance on outlandish hats for theatrical effect, Reed concentrated on the body for this collection. The result was designs featuring ballooned waistlines, voluminous fishtail hems, and wired sculptures extending from bodices. These designs made space for subtler details, such as dresses with bumsters that dropped low at the back, paying homage to Alexander McQueen, the inventor of this style.
Demi-Couture and Pro-Queer Messaging
Reed’s gowns, referred to as ‘demi-couture,’ displayed meticulous attention to detail in their finishings. Alongside the fashion, Reed’s consistent pro-queer messaging was particularly relevant, emphasizing the importance of standing against hate and discrimination.
Empowerment in Movement
Models donned outfits that allowed for freedom of movement, such as flared trousers paired with contrast-stitched monochrome corsets and asymmetric Medici-esque collars. However, some fishtail skirts were so tight that models faced challenges in walking, even coming close to stumbling.
London’s Importance and Craftsmanship
Reed, who manages both his eponymous label and the Parisian couture house Nina Ricci, reiterated the importance of showcasing in London. He highlighted the craftsmanship that can be achieved in the city and the need to support young talent in the industry, especially in a fashion landscape where many brands are shutting down.