As my tuk-tuk zoomed through the chaotic streets of Delhi, I felt as if I was on the edge of disaster.
The driver, unfazed, skillfully swerved around a moped carrying a family of four, dodging a sacred cow that had appeared out of nowhere.
“Here, you need three things: a good horn, good brakes, and good luck,” he said without missing a beat.
And just like that, we were out of harm’s way.
Welcome to the wild roads of India, a place where order and chaos somehow coexist, perfectly captured by a visiting ambassador’s description of the country’s traffic as “functional anarchy.”
Despite this close call, I was oddly invigorated. It felt like I was finally awake.
If I’m being honest, I hadn’t felt truly alive for a while.
Last year, my 27-year marriage ended abruptly, and shortly after, I lost my mum to dementia.
Oh, and I also turned 60, which only added to the sense of disorientation.
People suggested I needed a life-changing journey — a sort of Eat Pray Love adventure to rediscover myself.
So, with little else to lose, I booked a flight to New Delhi, embarking on a trip that would take me through spice markets, spiritual temples, and a few surprises along the way.
An India That’s Changed But Still Holds Its Mystique
I had been to India years ago, on a trip that saw my then-fiancé propose to me on a riverboat in Kerala.
Back then, the country felt raw, chaotic, and at times, overwhelming.
I remembered the beggars, the unsanitary conditions, the kids following us around begging for food or pens, and of course, the stomach troubles that hit me hard in Goa.
But today’s India, I quickly realized, is vastly different.
It’s now the world’s fifth-largest economy, surpassing the UK.
While poverty still exists, there’s an undeniable sense of optimism in the air.
The vibrant spices, the aroma of fuel, and the busy buzz of the streets all spoke to me of a nation in motion.
My nine-day journey was about to introduce me to both the old and the new: Rajasthan’s Golden Triangle — minus the Taj Mahal, but with a lot more lakes.
A Feast for the Senses in Delhi
First stop: Delhi. A city of 34 million people, where the noise is deafening, and the streets appear to be a maze of honking horns and vehicles going every which way.
For someone like me, it’s a sensory overload, but also a deeply exhilarating experience.
We checked into the Leela Palace, an oasis in the heart of this bustling metropolis.
The hotel blends colonial charm with a cosmopolitan edge. Inside, the grandeur was breathtaking.
Flowers are changed daily, the rooms are spacious, and there’s even an art collection that makes the hotel feel like a museum.
I felt instantly calmed by the sleek surroundings — the perfect contrast to the madness outside.
Our first culinary stop was Khari Baoli, one of the world’s largest spice markets.
The air was thick with the smells of turmeric, chilli, and dried figs, which, as our guide explained, are traditionally given to grooms for stamina on their wedding night.
We also ventured into Paranthe Wali Gali, a narrow street in Old Delhi, famous for its crispy, stuffed flatbreads.
At a small café, for just a pound, we were served parathas stuffed with peas, pumpkin, and even bananas.
And then, just when I thought I’d had enough of Delhi’s intensity, I was whisked away to the serenity of the Leela Palace’s rooftop infinity pool, where I could relax with mini burgers and a breathtaking 360-degree view of the city.
If this was a taste of luxury in the heart of chaos, I could get used to it.
Spirituality and Calm in Jaipur
Next, we arrived in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, and a world away from Delhi’s frenzy.
The city is known as the “Pink City” due to its ancient walled buildings that have been bathed in a soft rose hue since the 19th century.
Here, I felt the calm of centuries-old history and architecture.
Our stay at the Leela Jaipur, an exquisite property resembling a royal palace, was another example of India’s refined luxury.
Rose petals were tossed over us as we arrived, and a traditional dance troupe performed in the courtyard.
Inside, the hotel was a palace of marble fountains, chandeliers, and opulent decorations that felt both ancient and modern.
We visited the magnificent Amber Fort, a 16th-century UNESCO World Heritage site that once housed the king’s 12 wives (he really thought of everything!).
The Sheesh Mahal, or Palace of Mirrors, dazzled us with its walls and ceilings covered in thousands of tiny mirrors that sparkled in the sunlight.
I found myself lost in the beauty of the place, but also in a deeper contemplation of my own journey.
On the eve of Navratri, we witnessed thousands of devotees queueing outside a temple, waiting to worship Kali Mata, the lion-riding goddess.
It was an awe-inspiring sight. Later, we dined under the flickering candlelight of Jamavar, the hotel’s newly reopened restaurant, where we indulged in a royal Rajasthani feast.
It felt like we were dining with kings and queens.
The Magic of Udaipur: Love and Serenity
Finally, we arrived in Udaipur, a city that completely stole my heart.
Often called the Lake Como of Rajasthan, Udaipur is famous for its serene lakes and breathtaking palaces.
I was instantly enchanted by a boat ride across Lake Pichola, which took us to the Leela Palace, located on the shores of the lake.
Every room had a regal view of the ancient City Palace, the Monsoon Palace, and the Taj Lake Palace.
During my stay, I explored the traditional hand-block printing process, indulged in lakeside high tea, and even tried yoga at sunrise.
But the real magic happened when I visited a local Hindu temple and found myself caught up in a song for Lord Krishna.
There was a beautiful serenity in the air that made me feel, for the first time in a long while, truly at peace with myself.
A special moment came when I met a holy man who predicted my future.
He told me my marriage had been troubled, but that my palm had a special triangle indicating luck, success, and strength.
“You are a warrior woman,” he said with a smile. “But you are meant to be alone.” Oddly, I felt relieved.
Returning Home: Finding Peace Within
Back home after my journey through India, I felt a sense of clarity that I hadn’t experienced in years.
India had shown me luxury and hospitality like I had never imagined, and most importantly, it had shown me the strength and resilience I possess within.
I left with a sense of calm, ready to face whatever the future holds, knowing that I am more than capable of walking this journey alone.
And as for that famous Princess Diana-style photo at the Taj Mahal? That’s next on my list — but this time, I’ll be posing solo, and I’m perfectly okay with that.
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