If you’ve ever enjoyed a glossy, long-lasting gel manicure, you might want to pay attention. European health authorities have just moved to ban a chemical commonly used in gel nail polish over concerns it could pose serious health risks—though for now, it remains legal in the UK and US.
What’s Being Banned and Why
The European Union has prohibited trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide—better known as TPO—in all cosmetic products starting 1 September.
Research suggests the chemical could affect long-term fertility, raising red flags for both consumers and regulators. While the UK hasn’t followed suit yet, industry insiders predict a similar ban could be enforced by late 2026.
TPO isn’t just any ingredient. It’s a photoinitiator, which helps gel polish dry faster under UV light and keeps the colour vibrant for weeks rather than days.
That glossy, long-lasting finish that nail enthusiasts love comes with a caveat: experts warn that TPO and other similar chemicals may carry hidden health risks.
How the Ban Will Affect Nail Salons and Manufacturers
Nail salons in all 27 EU member states, as well as countries like Norway that adopt similar rules, must stop offering TPO-based gel polishes and safely dispose of existing stock.
Manufacturers now face the challenge of reformulating products to be TPO-free.
Although the US hasn’t introduced equivalent regulations yet, there are concerns that American salons sourcing European products could be indirectly affected.
Francesca Rapolla from the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association explained that some industries can appeal EU regulations if they can prove the risks are manageable.
But in the case of TPO, “the industry did not and could not defend its continued use,” she said, largely because alternative ingredients are readily available.
Controversy Over the Evidence
Not everyone agrees with the precautionary approach.
Some scientists argue that the EU ban lacks strong scientific backing and could create unnecessary economic strain.
Doug Schoon, a scientific consultant, warned that the decision could “impose unnecessary economic burdens, waste safe products, and undermine confidence in EU regulatory proportionality.”
Even retailers like Belgium’s ASAP Nails and Beauty Supply have voiced concerns, calling the ban a potential “major economic hit” to small businesses and pointing out that “there is no human evidence of danger.”
The Bigger Picture: Fertility and Cosmetic Chemicals
This debate comes amid growing concerns over chemicals in everyday cosmetic products.
Experts say endocrine disruptors—compounds that interfere with hormone systems—are linked to conditions like diabetes, obesity, certain cancers, and reproductive disorders.
Endometriosis, a painful condition where tissue normally lining the womb grows elsewhere, has skyrocketed from around 3.4 million cases globally in 1990 to 190 million today.
Phthalates, commonly used in nail polishes, perfumes, and hair products, are among the most worrying offenders.
These chemicals can seep through the skin, disrupting hormone balance and increasing risks of breast cancer and fertility problems.
Professor Katie Burns, a specialist in toxic chemicals and fertility at the University of Cincinnati College of Medicine, told the Daily Mail: “These are chemicals that will stay in the body for a long, long time, hidden in fatty tissue.
They impact the immune system, and in some women we believe this may trigger reproductive problems and endometriosis.”
What This Means for Consumers
For now, gel nail polish fans in the UK and US can still enjoy their manicures.
But the EU’s move signals a shift toward stricter regulations and greater awareness of chemical risks in cosmetics.
Experts advise staying informed about ingredients in beauty products and considering safer alternatives, especially for long-term health and fertility.
