Irish fashion house Paul Costelloe embraces heritage and modern vision as William Costelloe presents first collection since founder’s death in London

The Paul Costelloe fashion house has officially turned a page.

For over forty years, the Irish brand was synonymous with its founder, and now, following the passing of Paul Costelloe in November 2025, a new era has begun.

London Fashion Week saw the unveiling of the autumn/winter 2026 collection, marking the first presentation since the designer’s death.

Stepping Into His Father’s Shoes

The creative reins have passed to William Costelloe, Paul’s son, who debuted as the brand’s new creative director.

Describing the collection as “a fresh start,” William paid tribute to his father’s legendary vision while making clear the brand is moving forward under his guidance.

Homage to the Eighties and Princess Diana

Much of the collection drew inspiration from the decade that defined Paul Costelloe’s international fame.

Broad, sculpted shoulders, pussy-bow blouses, and sharply tailored double-breasted jackets with peplum waists dominated the runway.

These were the same styles that once made Costelloe a staple in Princess Diana’s wardrobe, cementing the designer’s enduring legacy in the Eighties fashion scene.

Palette, Structure, and Signature Details

The autumn/winter palette leaned on grey, taupe, mocha, and black, providing a sophisticated counterpoint to the collection’s bold silhouettes.

Opera gloves, exaggerated shoulders, and structured tailoring echoed current global trends, aligning with what other houses like Carolina Herrera have showcased recently.

Eveningwear featured Paul Costelloe’s own illustrative sketches, a literal weaving of the founder’s artistry into this new chapter.

A Touch of Ireland

Irish heritage remained at the heart of the brand.

The opening look featured a tailored Irish tweed jacket from Magee, adorned with blooming florals—a fabric choice originally made by Paul Costelloe himself.

This nod to traditional Irish textiles reinforced the house’s roots while signaling renewal under William’s leadership.

A Legacy Built on International Ambition

Paul Costelloe’s career spanned continents.

After training at Dublin’s Grafton Academy of Fashion Design and the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, he worked in Milan for La Rinascente and in New York for Anne Fogarty.

By 1979, he launched Paul Costelloe Collections, and just four years later, became personal designer to Princess Diana—a role that cemented his place in fashion history.

Standing Ovation for the Next Generation

As William took his bow at the end of the show, the audience rose in applause.

The gesture reflected both respect for the founder’s remarkable legacy and excitement for the new direction of the house.

The AW26 collection did not shy away from Paul Costelloe’s signature elements but embraced them, signaling that the brand’s heritage is alive even as a new generation shapes its future.

What’s Next?

Under William Costelloe, the house appears poised to honor its past while experimenting with contemporary interpretations.

With heritage fabrics, structured silhouettes, and bold detailing as the foundation, the next collections are expected to balance tradition with innovation, continuing the global relevance of the Paul Costelloe name.

Summary

The Paul Costelloe fashion house’s autumn/winter 2026 collection marked a pivotal moment: a seamless handover from founder to son.

By drawing inspiration from the Eighties, celebrating Irish textiles, and incorporating Paul’s iconic sketches, William Costelloe has successfully launched his tenure while staying true to the legacy that made the brand famous, particularly through its association with Princess Diana.

A fresh start has been announced, and the fashion world is watching closely.