Winning over middle-class shoppers is famously hard work, but Marks & Spencer may have just found the sweet spot.
Its newly reopened food hall in Chiswick doesn’t feel like a supermarket at all.
Step inside and the vibe is closer to a luxury hotel lobby or a stylish neighbourhood bistro than a place to grab milk and bread.
Chiswick Shoppers Are Already Smitten
Since opening its doors, the West London store has been pulling in admiring glances and glowing praise.
Locals wandering along Chiswick High Road have been openly swooning, with one shopper declaring it “the most beautiful supermarket in Britain.”
It’s not hard to see why — this is M&S Food turned up several notches.
From Modest Food Hall to Townhouse Statement
The site previously housed a fairly standard M&S Food, but the brand has dramatically reworked the space.
By taking over three neighbouring units, the store has expanded into a 15,200 sq ft food haven with a townhouse-style design.
Think vintage-inspired metro tiles, elegant finishes and a bespoke mosaic proudly bearing the M&S initials.
Food Counters That Steal the Show
This isn’t just about looks. The food offering is a major part of the charm.
Shoppers can browse a hand-rolled sushi counter, pick up butter-basted British rotisserie chicken, linger at the bakery stacked with sourdough loaves, or grab flowers and fresh herbs from an indoor market-style display.
There’s even an entire aisle devoted to premium ready meals and convenience food for busy days.
A Playground for Food Lovers
One well-heeled local summed up the mood perfectly, saying her first visit made her feel “like a kid in a candy store.”
She called the revamp “next-level M&S,” a sentiment echoed by many who see this as a big leap forward for the brand.
A Market Feel With a Neighbourhood Touch
Kate Armitage, visiting from nearby Richmond, said the store felt more like a food market than a traditional supermarket.
She raved about the fresh patisserie and sourdough, singling out a garlic boule as a standout.
With a generous fruit and veg section and plenty of lunch options, it’s become a go-to stop for local workers as well as residents.
Design That Nods to Local History
The revamp hasn’t ignored its surroundings.
Chiswick is an affluent area, with average house prices hovering between £1.06 million and £1.1 million, and M&S has traded nearby since 1920.
The white tiled façade and period-style details were chosen to reflect the historic character of the area, something locals have clearly noticed and appreciated.
Not Everyone Thinks It’s Big Enough
While the reaction has been overwhelmingly positive, a few shoppers have raised practical concerns.
Jennifer Ravensdale praised the entrance mosaic and overall aesthetic but admitted the store can feel cramped at peak times.
With so many people eager to explore, space is already at a premium.
Part of a Much Bigger Plan
The Chiswick opening is just one piece of a much wider strategy.
M&S currently operates around 330 stores nationwide, but plans to significantly expand its food footprint.
The aim is to grow to 420 standalone food stores and 180 mixed-use locations in the coming years, with around 200 potential food sites under consideration in London alone.
London First, Then Beyond
Much of the focus is on zones two and three of the capital, targeting prominent locations with good parking and floor space between 10,000 and 18,000 sq ft.
But the ambition doesn’t stop in London.
Towns such as Falmouth, Scarborough, St Andrews and Lancaster are also on the radar.
Momentum Is Clearly Building
More than half of all existing M&S stores are due for refurbishment by April 2028, and the pace is picking up.
Managing director of M&S Food Alex Freudmann has said the success of new-format stores has given the company confidence to push ahead faster, while chief executive Stuart Machin says the food business is outperforming the wider market after three straight years of monthly growth.
What Comes Next for M&S Food
If Chiswick is anything to go by, M&S isn’t just opening more food stores — it’s redefining what a supermarket can look and feel like.
For shoppers who want style with their sourdough and design alongside their dinner plans, this could be the future of the weekly shop.
