Every June, a quiet town in Cumbria called Appleby-in-Westmorland experiences a huge transformation.
What is normally a peaceful place with around 3,000 residents swells to tens of thousands of visitors, including up to 10,000 travellers who come for the famous Appleby Horse Fair.
This historic event has been held since 1775 and is known as one of the largest traditional gatherings of Gypsy, Roma, and Traveller communities in Europe.
A Town Swarmed by Visitors and Travellers
As the first week of June arrives, Appleby becomes a bustling hub with an estimated 40,000 people flooding the streets.
Locals brace themselves for the disruption and disorder that often come with the fair, including traffic jams, noise, and occasional conflicts.
Over the years, complaints have included damage to property, littering, and safety concerns for both people and animals.
A Mix of Tradition and Trouble
Despite the challenges, the fair still shows a softer, more charming side.
For example, four-year-old Jimmy Cole was spotted riding his miniature Shetland pony, Rolo, on the “flashing lane” – a country road behind Fair Hill where travellers ride their horses.
Jimmy’s dad, who traveled from London, shared how much the little boy loves his pony and how special this moment is for their family.
Meanwhile, teenage rider Scarlett Tipton from Stockport enjoys bringing her pony Duchess to the fair every year, appreciating the sense of fun and tradition despite the unpredictable weather.
Fortune Telling and Long-Standing Traditions
The fair also draws characters like Melvina Smith, a self-described “true born gypsy” and fortune teller who has attended Appleby for 30 years.
She recalls how the event used to be calmer and more relaxed but acknowledges it has grown busier and sometimes more chaotic, often due to alcohol-fueled bad behavior.
Melvina, from Blackpool, carries on a family legacy of palm reading and fortune telling, a tradition passed down through generations of her family.
Policing and Incidents Leading Up to the Fair
This year, police presence is stronger than ever, responding to incidents ranging from vandalism and burglary to racist abuse and knife threats.
Videos circulating on social media show horse-drawn carriages galloping through traffic and even children in distress when detained by police for alleged offenses.
One particularly tense moment involved two traveller boys being handcuffed by police in Kirkby Lonsdale, which sparked outrage among the community and accusations of unfair treatment.
Community Tensions and Local Concerns
Many locals express frustration over the arrival of large groups of travellers earlier than usual, some complaining about damage to local facilities like the cricket pavilion in Kirkby Lonsdale, which was left without windows after an attack by children.
Others lament the mess and disruption caused by travellers digging up roadside stakes and removing parking restriction signs, making it harder to control where caravans and horses settle.
Worries About Horse Welfare at the Fair
Animal welfare is a major concern for campaigners and residents alike.
Last year, two horses died from exhaustion during the fair, prompting calls for stricter regulations and checks on horse passports.
Despite the trading and movement of thousands of horses, there are no routine checks to ensure their safety and health.
How Some Locals Cope With the Fair
The fair’s atmosphere leads some Appleby residents to temporarily leave town, avoiding the noise, drunkenness, and occasional violence.
One local described the change as a shift from a peaceful country town to a scene resembling the “Wild West” with horses racing along the streets and tied to every railing.
Even small acts of vandalism, such as painted wooden animals created by local children being pulled off railings in parks, have upset residents.
Police Urge Caution and Patience on the Roads
Cumbria Police warn drivers to expect slow-moving traffic and to be careful, especially where horse-drawn vehicles mix with regular cars on busy roads like the A66.
The police stress that public safety is their top priority and encourage everyone to plan ahead and drive cautiously.
A Fair Steeped in History and Tradition
Appleby Horse Fair takes place just outside the town on Gallows Hill, a site with a grim past linked to public hangings.
Though once thought to have royal origins dating back to King James II, the fair’s roots actually trace to the 18th century as a meeting place for sheep, cattle, and horse dealers.
Over centuries, the event has evolved into a major gathering for Gypsy, Roma, and Traveller communities across the UK and Europe.
Its long history has only seen two cancellations: once during the 2001 foot and mouth outbreak, and again in 2020 due to the Covid pandemic.